Comm. Outreach: Animal Care Tips

Below are important articles regarding the health care of your beloved animal.

 · Feline Leukemia
 · What Is Demodectic Mange?
 · Problems of Older Pets
 · Never Medicate Your Pets With Human Medicine
 · Natural Flea and Tick Solution
 · Safety Tip

Seasonal care

  · Give Your Pet the Best Protection Year 'Round
  · Is Your Pet Ready for a Disaster?
  · Spring: Spring Flea Revival
  · Summer: Preheat Oven to 350; Now Jump In!
  · Fall: Halloween Pet Care Tips
  · Winter Pet Care Tips

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Feline Leukemia

Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) is NOT contagious to people! As a retrovirus, it appears to be exclusive to members of the cat family, including domestic breeds and certain small exotic cats-sand cats, European wild cats, jungle cats, and possibly leopards. It is not contagious to dogs or any animals other than cats. Although FeLV is responsible for more deaths among American domestic cats than any other known single cause, a positive test does NOT mean the cat will develop leukemia or other diseases.

Feline Leukemia virus is thought to be transmitted through the saliva, urine, and blood of infected animals. However, it's a very weak virus, and effective transmission of the virus probably requires prolonged close contact with an infected animal. It is rapidly inactivated through warmth and drying, according to the Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

The virus usually begins within two weeks of contact with a low-grade viremia, or virus in the bloodstream. The virus is transported, via the blood, to other regions of the body, especially systemic lymphatic tissue, intestinal tissue, and bone marrow. At this stage, about 40% of cats have strong enough immune systems that they are able to resist widespread infection, effectively fighting off the disease.

For the rest, a second, more profound, viremia sets in. In about 20% of cats, at this stage, the virus becomes sequestered somewhere in the body as a latent infection, from which the majority will emerge truly FeLV-free about two to three years after first becoming infected.

Carrying the virus is different from having a disease caused by the virus. When the immune system cannot fight off the virus, cats can become ill with various conditions, such as lymphoma and anemia. Infection can spread, possibly to the pharynx, esophagus, stomach, bladder, respiratory tract, and salivary glands. The disease can further suppress the immune system, making infected cats especially susceptible to secondary infections. Common diseases for these cats are lymphosarcoma, several types of anemia, thymic atrophy syndromes, and at least one form of kidney disease.

In the event that a cat appears to recover from the disease, the only way to correctly ascertain if the cat is truly Felv negative is by use of the IFA test (rather than the Elisa antigen test). After being tested once, the cat should be tested a second time, at least three months later. Thereafter, the cat should be retested every six to 12 months to determine whether or not the disease has recurred.

There are a few simple measures that can be taken to enhance the health of the cat with active feline leukemia, thereby enabling it to live out its life in relative ease and comfort. It is important that possible stresses to the cat be kept to a minimum. A large cat population should be avoided (for more reasons than one, obviously), as should changes of environment and drastic medical procedures such as surgeries. The living area of the cat should be kept as clean as possible to reduce its exposure to viruses, fungi, or bacteria. A highly nutritious diet is in order and it is advisable that a fecal examination be performed regularly to detect the presence of any internal parasites.

But, of course, the best defense is a good offense. To keep to a minimum the chances of a cat contracting feline leukemia in the first place, it should always be kept indoors. This is a good policy for all cats since those who are allowed outside are almost three times as likely to become infected as are those who are kept indoors and are far more likely to contract injuries and infections than those living inside.

In regard to vaccinations, become an informed consumer. While many veterinarians recommend yearly vaccinations, others are beginning to take a more conservative stance. Colorado State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital's vaccination program includes the three shot series for kittens (panleukopenia, rhinotracheitis, calcivirus) and, after 12 weeks, the rabies vaccine and a booster one year later. Then vaccinations are given every three years for these diseases due to a growing concern of the negative effects of overvaccination.

Vaccinations for conditions such as feline leukemia are not part of the routine program; they are only given for animals that are in high risk situations. Reportedly, the University of Wisconsin, Texas A & M and the American Association of Feline Practitioners have adopted similar vaccination programs. They recommend that pet owners work with a local veterinarian to develop a vaccination program that is tailored for the specific pet's health status and particular situation.

Only an appropriate medical test performed by your veterinarian can diagnose feline leukemia. If your cat shows signs of illness, seek medical care immediately.

Check the Cornell University links on FELV for more information.

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What Is Demodectic Mange?

Demodectic mange or "demodicosis" is a common condition caused by a tiny mite called "Demodex canis". All dogs that are raised by their mothers have this mite, because they are transferred when a mother cuddles her pups in their first few days of life. Most pets never experience the mange that can result from these microscopic creatures, but sometimes, for some dogs, the mites multiply rapidly and cause the serious skin disease, Demodectic mange. Cats can also get Demodectic mange, though this is infrequent. Unlike sarcoptic mange, Demodectic mange is not contagious to humans or other animals, yet it can have some significant indications.

Demodectic mange is diagnosed by a skin scraping. Under the microscope, your veterinarian can see the tiny mites that cause this condition. Because there are different types of mange, there must be an accurate diagnosis in order to determine what course of treatment to pursue. Pets with sarcoptic mange or ringworm can look like they have demodicosis.

There are three forms of Demodectic mange: localized, generalized and demodectic pododermititis. In the localized form, the pet usually experiences small patches of hair loss and sometimes a red, scaly, well-defined lesion forms on the face or forelegs. These localized lesions may resolve without treatment in young pups under 1 year. However, treatment is often pursued to facilitate recovery. Localized demodicosis occurs almost exclusively in puppyhood.

Sometimes, localized demodicosis becomes generalized. 1n this situation, the entire animal is affected with skin infections, bald, scaly skin and only patchy fur. Enlarged lymph nodes in dogs with localized demodectic mange is an issue of particular concern, as it tends to predict the more generalized form. Generalized Demodectic mange is a more serious condition. The third form, Demodectic pododermititis is confined to the paws and typically has a bacterial infection. Old English Sheepdogs and Sharpeis tend to get severe forms of this condition.

Most localized and generalized demodicosis occurs only in young dogs under 1 year. When an older animal gets demodectic mange, there is frequently an underlying problem with its immune system, possibly even cancer. Because the predisposition of this condition is hereditary, animals with a history of generalized demodectic mange should never be bred.

Fortunately, there are some effective treatments for Demodectic mange. Treatment generally includes bathing and dipping dogs. Goodwinol ointment and Mitaban are two effective treatments when used as prescribed by a veterinarian. Topical and oral antibiotics may also be required for skin infections. Cortisone type medications such as prednisone should NOT be used, however. These medications impair the immune system and exacerbate the potential for the condition to become even more severe.

Physiological stress is an important factor in determining how severe a case of demodectic mange becomes. Animals should be spayed or neutered as soon as the disease is controlled. Pregnancy, in particular, is very stressful on the body and can complicate the condition. A highly nutritious diet and freedom from parasites are desirable as these can reduce stress on the body. Worms and fleas increase the potential for itching and skin infection. Because the mites suppress the animal's immune system, every effort should be made to assure the dog stays healthy. Like any disease process, the psychological needs of your pet need to be met with plenty of exercise, TLC, and access to fresh water at all times. Other skin conditions like allergies can occur simultaneously, and need to be treated also.

The younger the animal, the better the chance it will be able to recover from the condition. Relapse is always a possibility with generalized demodicosis but most animals that relapse do so within a 6-12 month period from the time they appear to have achieved cure. When relapse occurs it is often because the dog appeared to be normal and the owner did not return for the appropriate rescrapings. The final scrape is performed one month after treatment has stopped. There is no way to tell how a particular animal will react to the treatment. While in most cases demodicosis can be controlled, sometimes it cannot. There is no guarantee. Anytime you spot any unusual skin or other condition on your dog or cat, it's time to consult your veterinarian for a diagnosis and prescribed treatment.

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Problems Of Older Pets

As pets grow older, their bodies go through natural aging processes. Probably the most obvious change will be a decline in activity. But some other changes may signal age-related diseases which need treatment.

Since older pets are more likely to develop certain problems, regular veterinary check-ups are important. Your veterinarian can detect early signs of disease and take steps to minimize any problems.

One of the most common problems seen in older pets is bad teeth and diseased gums. Pets with bad teeth often refuse to eat or eat sparingly. Sometimes a good veterinary teeth cleaning will help, but if the problem has gone for a long time it may be necessary to extract some teeth.

Ideally, pet owners will examine their pet's teeth regularly and will seek veterinary care whenever they notice yellowish-brown tartar building up. Your veterinarian can also evaluate your pet's dental condition during annual checkups and can recommend how frequently your pet's teeth need cleaning. Certain old-age related diseases cannot be prevented, but with proper care their effects can be minimized and your pet's life can possibly be prolonged. For example, heart and kidney problems are common in older animals. If caught early, proper veterinary care may help control the problem.

Early signs of heart disease include a pet that tires easily during exercise and coughing, especially at night. Pets with kidney disease often drink large volumes of water and urinate a large volume. If you notice these signs in your pet, consult with your veterinarian.

A painful and unpreventable problem seen in many older pets is arthritis. There is no effective means of arresting the progression of arthritis, so treatment is directed at relieving any significant pain. Some pets will only show mild, intermittent lameness or stiffness and need no treatment. Others show a lot of discomfort and your veterinarian can prescribe pain relievers.

Allan Paul, D.V.M.
University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine

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Never Medicate Your Pets With Human Medicine

Many people often make the mistake that if it's good for me, it must be OK for my pet. Wrong! When it comes to providing medical treatment for a pet, there are three very important rules for all pet owners:

1. Do not give your pet human medications or medications prescribed for another animal, unless directed by a veterinarian. Be sure to ask how much and how often to give the drug and be honest about your memory. Write it down.



2. If your pet gets into a human medication, treat it as a poisoning victim until proven otherwise. This means contacting a veterinarian immediately.



3. Veterinarians do not tell mothers how to treat their children, and do not ask a human physician how to treat your pets. Human and animal metabolisms vary widely.

Always remember, if you have a concern that your pet may have been poisoned, do not hesitate. Contact the National Animal Poison Control Center. It is the only pet poison control facility for animals in the nation. Phones are answered 24 hours a day, seven days a week and each call is handled by a veterinarian with special training in toxicology. There are two numbers to call: 1-800-548-2424 ($30 credit card charge per case) and 1-900-680-0000 ($2.95 per minute).

Perhaps the most important point of all to remember is to maintain a good relationship with your veterinarian and keep them a vital part of your pet's health care.

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Give Your Pet The Best Protection Year 'round

The Humane Society of the United States has provided us with plans for an excellently designed dog house that will accommodate your outside pet's needs year 'round. Some of us have even adapted this plan to fit the size and needs of our outside cats. The design is by William R. Meade, III, and is sturdy and weather protective.

The measurements are based on the size of your dog, and the inside wall helps block the wind. You may wish to add a cloth or canvas drape for a door, especially in winter, and make sure the door does not face the direction from which the wind usually blows. The floor should be covered with cedar chips for comfort and a clean smell.

Always keep the dog house clean and free from parasites. Your dog needs the proper amount of nourishing food, and make sure if its water freezes over during the night, you replenish it early the next morning.

Remember that your outside dog may spend the majority of its time outdoors, but it needs as much companionship as an indoor pet, so give it lots of love and attention.




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Is Your Pet Ready For A Disaster?

Your companion animals should be included in every disaster plan! Here are some helpful tips for making sure that your beloved pet is safe.

• Keep up-to-date identification on your cat or dog at all times. Make sure the collar is properly fitted (avoid chain link collars for dogs and break-away collars for cats). It's a good idea to have a friend's or family member's number on your pet's ID tag in case you cannot be contacted.
• Have current color photographs of your pet, showing any distinguishing markings, with your emergency supplies. If you and your pet become separated, these pictures will help identify him or her.
• If you know a disaster is imminent, bring your pets inside immediately! Get your animals under control as quickly as possible, either on a leash or in a carrier.
• Disasters often strike suddenly, while you're away from home. You can improve your pet's chances for safety if you leave him/her inside, with collars and ID tags, when you go out. Consider an arrangement with a neighbor who would be willing to evacuate your pet in your absence. Make sure that person knows your animals, can locate your emergency supplies, and has a key to your house. Provide him/her with instructions and phone numbers.

If You Evacuate - Take Your Pet!

Your animal's best protection is to be with you. But remember, taking your pet requires special planning, so take the following steps:

• Locate a safe place for your pets before disaster strikes. Evacuation shelters generally don't accept animals.
• Call hotels and motels in your immediate area and a reasonable distance from your home. Ask whether they accept pets, under what conditions, and whether there are restrictions as to size and number of animals.
• Call local boarding kennels and veterinarians with boarding facilities. Ask about their ability to house animals in case of emergency and/or disaster.
• Ask friends or family members whether they will provide foster care for your pets.

Disaster Supplies For Your Pet

Portable carrier (essential for cats)
Food/water bowls
Supply of your pet's food and water in plastic bottles
Litter and litter box for cats
Supply of your pet's regular medications
First Aid Kit
Health records including vaccination records
Instructions on your pet's feeding schedules and diet, medications, and any special foods.
Leashes.

If You Must Leave Your Pet Behind...

Leaving your pet at home alone will place your animal at greater risk for injury or loss, so make every effort to take your pet with you. If you have no alternative but to leave your pet behind, there are some precautions you must take.

• Give your pet access to a safe, secure room without windows but with adequate ventilation, such as a bathroom.
• Leave enough food for at least three days (ask your veterinarian ahead of time what's best for your pet).
• A sufficient amount of water is critical. One animal can easily drink several gallons of water a day when under stress. Place water in containers that aren't easily knocked over, and leave a faucet dripping into a bathtub or sink with an open drain. If you expect flooding, provide access to elevated spaces or counters. Leave familiar bedding and safe toys.
• Don't confine dogs and cats in the same space. Keep small animals and birds safely caged.
• Make sure your pets are wearing proper identification (a collar and a tag).
• Place a notice on your front door advising what pets are in the house and where they are located. Provide a telephone number where you or a contact can be reached as well as the name and number of your vet.
• If you have a bird, leave food in dispensers that regulate the amount of food and supply extra water.
• Birds must eat daily to survive. Secure cages so they won't swing or fall. Cover the cage with a thin cloth or sheet to provide security and filtered light.

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Spring Flea Revival

Spring is almost here and fleas are going stir-crazy from being cramped in those little cocoons for the winter. For those of you who have been seeing fleas during the winter, you realize that fleas like to move indoors for the colder months. The misinformed believe that fleas can't live outside. The fact is that fleas are very hardy creatures and can survive until a hard freeze wipes them out. The hitch is that they find warmth, food, shelter and entertainment on your animal's skin.

Yes, Virginia, I have seen fleas and flea allergies during winter months. Even after a hard freeze kills those unprotected fleas, the pupae in cocoons survive anything less than a nuclear holocaust. Actually fire will kill them too, but is illegal in most cities. An interesting fact about the pupae is that it stays in the cocoon from 5 to 200 days. They emerge in response to motion. This is a survival adaptation to make sure there is a meal when the hungry adult flea emerges. The significance is that you should vacuum your carpet and mow your lawn Prior to insecticide application to assure that the adults emerge for the kill. No insecticide penetrates the cocoon.

Two very important factors or flea roliferation are warmth and moisture. This means that those lawns and flower beds full from last year's beautiful fall leaf harvest, make for flea Disneyland. To spell it out, you weekend warriors must arm yourselves now for the fight against puppy enemy number 1, the flea before they multiply and drive your pouch or kitty cat crazy.

The answer is to clean out those flower bed/flea nests, mow and bag that lawn and begin your insecticide application before they begin to multiply. This means concurrently dipping all pets, spraying your yard and spraying/bombing your house. All three must be performed to be effective. The most effective way to control fleas is to repeat this trio treatment every two weeks for three treatments to break the flea life cycle, then once a month to prevent new infestation.

On the third biweekly treatment and the monthly treatments you should use a product with adult killers and an ingredient to kill the larvae. This larval ingredient lasts for one month. Your veterinarian has the best products available over the counter and the knowledge to assist you in the flea war. A professional exterminator has the knowledge and stronger products (restricted to use by a licensed exterminator) but may be a little more expensive. The discount and farm supply stores have the cheapest products and lack the proper understanding to assist you in this fight.

The keys to effectively dipping your pet is to bathe and clean your pet, use the right ingredients, total body coverage (protect the eyes with some ophthalmic ointment) and allow the dip to dry on the animal. Ask your veterinarian for safe and effective products. DO NOT USE LINDANE DIP. If you don't want the hassle, have your veterinary clinic or groomer do it, or better yet, attend the Humane Society's doggy dips and donate to a great cause.

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Preheat Oven To 350 Degrees, Now Jump In!

That should give you an idea of how your pet feels when you leave him in a parked car on a sunny day, even for a few minutes. Never leave an animal in a parked car in warm weather, even for a short period of time with the windows partially open!

It is vitally important that plenty of cool, clean water is available during this time of the year. Refresh the water often and be sure the bowls can't tip over. Outside dogs must always have a shady and sheltered place to rest. Cats should be kept inside.

Heatstroke is a swift killer. The symptoms of heatstroke are laborious panting, drooling, bright red tongue and gums, and finally collapse. Should these signs occur, you must take emergency action! Somehow get the animal into cool water right away, then rush it to a veterinarian. Prevent heatstroke by exercising your dog during the early morning and evening hours.

Do not allow animals to ride in the beds of pickup trucks. Besides being dangerous, the truck bed can burn their paws.

Heartworms are internal parasites that are transmitted to dogs by mosquitoes. Because dogs that are infested with heartworms can suffer severe distress and die of heart failure, you should see your veterinarian for preventative medicine.

Almost all pets that are allowed outside will get fleas. A large variety of products are available to kill fleas. If you allow any of your pets outside, begin flea treatment right now. Wash pet bedding frequently to kill fleas and their eggs.

Be careful when walking your pet on hot pavement; it can burn his or her paw pads. If the pavement is too hot for you to walk on comfortably in bare feet, stay in grassy areas. Sand on the beach also gets hot and can burn paws!

If you plan to take a vacation this summer, carefully consider what to do with your pet. If you are taking your pet with you, make reservations with pet-friendly hotels well in advance. If you are leaving your pet at home, you can board it at a kennel or veterinary clinic, hire a pet sitter, or ask a trusted friend or neighbor to care for it. Leaving your pet shut in an empty house with no one to care for it, or tied up outside, are not acceptable alternatives!

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Halloween Pet Care Tips

Gremlins and ghosts will soon be knocking on the door as Halloween night creeps up on us. While for kids (and adults) this fun event is often harmless except for a tummy ache or two, this spooky time often brings a frightening rise in animal abuse. Don't let your animal become a victim to some terrible trickster! Keep these tips in mind.

Keep your pet inside on and around Halloween night! A room away from your front door will probably work best because of the constant traffic, costumed strangers, loud, high-pitched children's voices and other bumps in the night. Such commotion can agitate or frighten animals!

Bring outdoor pets inside: if not into your house, then at least into a laundry room or garage. Save your pet from becoming the victim of a vicious trick. Black and white cats are particularly vulnerable during this time, but any animal could suffer at the hands of an insensitive ghost or goblin. Candy and critters don't mix! Keep the goodies away from your pets. It's bad for their teeth and upsets their stomachs! Chocolate, in particular. is dangerous for your pets. It contains the drugs theobromine and caffeine, which are toxic to pets. Large doses can be fatal.

Have ID on your pets: many animals slip out of the house while the door is opened to "trick or treaters." Once outside, they may become frightened from all the commotion and run or hide. An ID tag will help your neighbors as they try to return any "lost" pets they might find.

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Winter Pet Care Tips

Antifreeze is a great hazard. Cats and dogs find the taste sweet and will lick puddles that happen to be on the garage floor or street causing a horribly painful death. As the weather becomes cold, mice and rats look for warm places to stay. Rat poisons are dangerous to your pets, use them with care. In frigid weather, the bowl of water you put out for your dog may freeze, while cats can survive on frozen water, dogs cannot. Be sure to put the water in a warmer place or check it several times during the day.

Make sure your pet has some place warm to stay with it becomes uncomfortably cold. Animals can freeze to death just like people can, if exposed to brutal weather for long periods. Look before your start your car. Cats love warm places, they will often climb into car engines to get warm in winter. Lacerations, bums and other traumatic injuries and even death can occur for a cat when an engine starts.

Watch out for the tree! Take care to keep pets away from holiday lights, ornaments and tinsel. Chewing light wires can be lethal. Glass ornaments are enticing and can easily be broken and cause cuts. Many cats eat foil icicles and tinsel from trees. This can block intestines and may require surgery.

Use caution when securing sheds, attics, basements and other storage buildings for the winter. Cats often crawl into these warm places and may be unknowingly locked inside to starve.

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Natural Flea and Tick Solution

Concerned about using chemical flea and tick treatments? Try apple cider vinegar. Use just a little in the water of your dog at first to get him/her used to the taste and smell. Increase the concentration slowly up to about 3 ounces per gallon of water. The user who told us about this lives in Florida, quit using flea products in September 99 and hasn't seen a flea or tick since!

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Safety Tip

One of our members sends this safety tip. If you get a prescription for your pet from a regular pharmacy, it's a good rule of thumb to double check the dosage with your vet. Pharmacies are used to dealing with people dosages, not small animals. Like the adage says, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

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